How to build a gaming PC with some reference of top gaming PC’s will be discussed in details in this article. If you want to build the best gaming PC, then this guide is special for you.
Your gaming experience will be enhanced by building your own PC, which also lets you change any component whenever you want.
Making a gaming PC in reasonable stages makes the task considerably less frightening. Do not worry if you are a newbie; previous building expertise is not necessary.
The only certain method to make sure that your system can accommodate all of your specific tastes is to build a gaming PC from the ground up.
You can be sure that you’ll be able to play the games you want at the frame rates you desire when you choose everything that goes into your PC, starting with the power supply.
A home-built PC also leaves room for improvements as technology advances, your preferences and requirements change, or your financial situation permits.
Despite the frightening nature of PC construction, you could discover that it’s simpler than you think, particularly when broken down into manageable stages.
This detailed step-by-step guide to constructing your first gaming PC was created as a result, and it includes advice from seasoned builders.
PREP 1: Gaming PC Construction Tools
Getting the tools you need to finish the construction is the first step in getting ready. The supplies listed below should be prepared in advance to help guarantee a smooth construction.
- To work on, you will want a big surface like a table. Make sure you are standing on a non-carpeted surface to avoid an unintentional electrostatic discharge, which might harm delicate components.
- A Phillips #2 screwdriver is required for almost all tasks. Also required is a Phillips #0 screwdriver if you’re installing an M.2 device.
The magnetic tip of magnetic screwdrivers is quite weak and shouldn’t have any impact on your components, but they will stop you from losing screws inside your case.
PREP 2: Gaming PC Cases
You should have a case, or at the very least, the size of the case, in mind before you begin choosing the components.
The location of the computer is the major consideration when choosing a case. The eventual location of your PC will decide how large you can (or cannot) go and whether or not specific premium case features are worthwhile investing in.
If the computer will be buried beneath your desk, for instance, you probably don’t want to spend the money on a tempered glass side panel.
The three sizes of cases are full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower. These are relatively broad categories, although they are based on motherboard size (case sizes are not uniform among manufacturers).
PREP 3: Gaming PC Parts
It’s time to assemble your components at this point.
This stage may be as involved or as passive as you choose; you can extensively investigate each individual component on your own and make a bespoke build from scratch, or you can discover a pre-made build online and modify it to fit your particular demands and budget.
Since it’s easy for component buying to spiral out of control, we strongly advise setting a budget before choosing your components. Keep in mind that you may always update certain components afterwards.
Make a construction list before you buy anything; each component must be able to work with every other component.
Pro-tip: If you’re constructing this PC so you can play a certain game, be sure to research the recommended system requirements for that game before you start building.
Here are the parts you need to create a gaming PC in addition to your case:
- Central processing unit (CPU)
- Memory (RAM)
- Graphics processing unit (GPU)
- Power supply unit (PSU)
- System cooling
- Gaming peripherals
- Operating system (OS)
Let’s examine what each component accomplishes, why it is essential, and what to look for when comparing products to build the best gaming PC.
Step 1: Install CPU
components/tools: CPU, motherboard
Put the motherboard on your work surface after removing it from its antistatic package. Locate the CPU socket, which should be hidden by a plastic covering for protection.
You’ll notice a little arrow in the corner of the plastic cap or, more often, on the socket itself. Make note of where this arrow is.
You’ll see a little metal lever next to the CPU socket. To open the socket tray, depress the lever and gently move it to the side (away from the socket).
Open the CPU’s packing, then take it out. When handling the CPU, use great caution since both the CPU and the CPU socket are particularly prone to physical harm.
Never contact the pins on the bottom of the CPU since your fingers might add dirt or grease, and avoid touching the top of the CPU as well. Instead, hold the CPU by the edges.
You may notice an arrow in the CPU’s corner. Place the CPU into the socket by aligning this arrow with the arrow on the socket.
The retention lever may be lowered and pushed back into position once the CPU has been carefully inserted. While placing the CPU won’t take much effort, lowering the lever would!
Step 2: M.2 SSD installation (Optional)
M.2 SSD, a Phillips #0 screwdriver, a motherboard user manual, and additional components
This is an excellent opportunity to install an M.2 SSD if you wish to. Locate the M.2 slot on your motherboard first. It has a little screw just across from it and a small horizontal groove.
Consult the user guide that came with your motherboard if you can’t locate it, if you discover several M.2 slots, or if you want to install more than one M.2 SSD.
Use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the little screw. Keep it together.
Gently insert the M.2 SSD into the slot. It will be roughly 35 degrees away from the motherboard when properly seated. To lock the SSD in place, push it down and reinstall the little screw.
STEP 3: Install CPU cooling
CPU cooler, thermal paste, CPU cooler manual, motherboard with mounted CPU
Different kinds of CPU coolers exist. We advise you to refer to the documentation that comes with your CPU cooler for precise installation instructions.
Some coolers need a bracket for attachment. The motherboard could already have a bracket installed; if your cooler doesn’t need one, you’ll need to remove it; if it requires a different bracket, you’ll need to replace it.
Before inserting the motherboard into the casing, carry out this step.
The conductive material (which rests on the CPU) on some coolers already has thermal paste applied to it, although that is not the case with others.
Before seating the cooler, you must manually apply thermal paste if it has not already been put to the cooler. Squeeze a tiny dot of thermal paste, little bigger than a rice grain, onto the CPU’s center.
The pressure from the cooler will distribute the thermal paste effectively after it is placed on the CPU.
STEP 4: Install memory (RAM)
components/tools: RAM, motherboard user guide, motherboard.
Count the number of RAM slots on your motherboard (most have either two or four). Snap the RAM into place if you want to fill all of the available slots.
Consult the user manual to determine the proper configuration if you won’t be using all of the RAM slots, then fill the RAM slots in accordance with that arrangement.
STEP 5: (Optional) Do a test run outside the case
A motherboard with a CPU and CPU cooler installed, RAM, a GPU, a power supply, a screwdriver, and a computer monitor (attached to GPU)
You may wish to conduct a short test of your components to verify sure they all function after installing the CPU and CPU cooling. Once everything is put into the chassis, performing (and troubleshooting) this test becomes considerably more challenging.
Install the GPU and connect everything to the power supply to do this (for instructions on installing the GPU, see the section below).
Before plugging it in and turning it on, confirm that the power supply is connected to the motherboard (both CPU 8pin and 24pin) and GPU.
Power buttons are included on a few high-end motherboards, but not many. If there isn’t a power button, look for the power switch pins, which are tiny pairs of prongs that protrude from vibrant nodules.
It’s possible to identify the power switch pins with anything like “PWR ON.” By simultaneously tapping both power switch pins with a screwdriver, the motherboard may be powered on.
Now, you ought to be able to determine which parts of your system are broken or dead. Your motherboard is likely attempting to communicate with you if it is beeping or flashing lights at you. To aid in issue diagnosis, certain motherboards incorporate a post code display (two digits).
Consult your user manual to see what it is attempting to communicate. Connect a monitor to the GPU and check to see whether your system “posts,” or starts up, and shows the motherboard’s logo if your motherboard lacks a post code display.
To make sure there is no remaining power in the system after the test run, switch off the power source and watch any LEDs on the motherboard turn off. Before moving on to the next step, remove the GPU and disconnect any power cords.
STEP 6: Mount power supply
parts/tools: PSU, case, PSU wires, Phillips #2 screwdriver
If you choose to do a test run, unpack the PSU and remove its cords from the components (if you can).
Examine your case and determine where the PSU should sit (likely on the bottom, next to the rear) and how it should be orientated.
The PSU should ideally be placed such that its fan is facing away from the casing (via a vent). You may install the PSU upside down if your case includes a bottom vent as long as the bottom vent will have sufficient airflow after the PC is built.
Make sure the PSU has adequate clearance and install it with the fan pointing up (into the case) if your case lacks vents.
Using the four screws that come with the PSU, secure it to the casing.
Now is the time to route the wires connecting to the power supply through the casing to where they will need to terminate if you’re using a non-modular or semi-modular power supply (make use of cable management features if your case has them).
STEP 7: Install motherboard
Case, motherboard, I/O shield (if not already connected to the motherboard), screws, Phillips #2 screwdriver, and motherboard user manual are the components and tools.
If your motherboard has an unattached I/O shield, which is a rectangular piece of metal with ports cut out of it, you should first snap it into place in the case’s rear (make sure it’s orientated properly). I/O shields sometimes have jagged edges, so be careful with your fingertips.
The motherboard may be installed once the I/O shield has been set up. Place the motherboard after making sure that all of your wires are positioned correctly (by first lining them up with the I/O shield).
Install the first screw, the center screw, to keep the motherboard in place using a Phillips #2 screwdriver. Make sure your motherboard does not touch the standoffs that are fastened to the chassis.
Depending on the board, you may need more or less screws to attach the motherboard, however an ATX full-size motherboard typically requires 9 screws. Completely enclose all screwholes.
Connect the motherboard and power supply. There are two primary connections: a 24-pin connector from the side and an 8-pin CPU connector towards the top of the board.
STEP 8: Install GPU
motherboard, graphics processing unit, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, and motherboard user manual
On your motherboard, locate the PCIe* x16 slot. It could be a different color from the other slots and will be the longest PCIe* slot. Check the user manual to determine whether one PCIe* x16 slot on your motherboard needs to be prioritized if it has more than one.
If more than one slot is available, choose one depending on the placement of other components; you want to give your GPU some space to breathe.
To fit your GPU’s I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) and make it accessible to the outside of the chassis, you may need to remove I/O covers (little metal tabs obstructing the rear panel of your case).
The GPU should be properly aligned with the rear retaining bracket and the slot itself after being removed from its antistatic packing. The GPU should then be gently pushed into the PCIe* x16 slot (you may hear a click).
If you need to reinstall the GPU, the PCIe* tab on the motherboard can migrate into a locked position.
Use one or two screws to fasten the GPU to the case’s rear after it is completely seated. Connect your GPU to the power source if it needs auxiliary power connections.
STEP 9: Install storage
components/tools: Motherboard, SSD, HDD, screwdriver, screws, case/chassis user manual, and Phillips #2 screwdriver.
Examine your case first. When it comes to drive bays, every case differs somewhat.
Inside your case, you have to be able to locate a stack of bays in various sizes. They could just appear like metal brackets, or they might include tiny plastic switches, in which case they are tool-free bays.
Storage typically comes in two sizes: 3.5-inch and 2.5-inch (HDDs and SSDs) (HDDs). Although some 3.5-inch bays have trays that aren’t designed for 2.5-inch drives but can still accommodate 2.5-inch bays, most 3.5-inch bays can take 2.5-inch drives but not the other way around.
Additionally, your case may include bigger bays that are intended for larger devices like optical drives and are often found at the front of the case, close to the top.
Each tool-free bay will have its own plastic lever or switch if you have them. You should be able to lift out the tray if you can open or unlock the lever or switch.
Put your drive within the tray; some 3.5-inch trays may also accommodate 2.5-inch drives. If so, you must secure the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray with screws to prevent it from moving.
Reposition the tray within the bay. It ought to snap into place.
If you don’t have tool-free bays, you’ll see a large, sheet-like metal bracket with slats or holes. Simply slip the drive between the metal bracket and the side of your case and secure it with a screw to place it in one of these “bays.”
Use as many screws as the chassis instructions suggests, however most drives will work with only two screws if you don’t have enough.
Connect the motherboard (using a SATA cable, which should have arrived with either your drive or your motherboard) and the power supply after all of your disks have been installed.
STEP 10: Install operating system
PC, monitor, mouse, keyboard, and OS on a flash drive are the components and tools.
Now is the perfect moment to prepare your operating system (OS) on a USB flash drive to make your gaming PC active, if you haven’t previously.
Turn on your PC, connect a monitor, mouse, and keyboard, as well as the USB flash drive containing your operating system.
You’ll be instructed to hit a key to access the system configuration, or BIOS, on the first screen you see. To start the BIOS, press the key. (Check your motherboard’s user manual if the screen flashes off too rapidly for you to see the key.)
You should first make sure that all of your components are installed and recognized.
Check to see whether the system is recognizing everything you’ve installed so far by finding the page in BIOS that displays information about your PC’s system (various motherboards have different BIOS layouts, but you should be able to locate a screen that provides this information).
Then, explore BIOS until you locate the Boot page (may be called “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority”). If you’re using an SSD as your boot drive, you should install the OS here.
If not, change the boot order such that your flash drive is first and the disk you wish to install your operating system on is second.
Switch off your computer. When your computer starts up using the USB drive, the OS installation will appear. To complete the installation, adhere to the instructions.
Nothing ends here
Congratulations on completing your construction if you’ve read all the way through our guide—especially if it’s your first time! However, the job need not necessarily finish here.
The fact that the task is never fully ended is the finest part about creating your own gaming PC.
As new hardware innovations arise, a bespoke PC’s ability to be customized is almost endless, and your personal setup may be as current as you want depending on your demands and budget.
Keep these options in mind the next time you look at the suggested system requirements for a new game you wish to play.
The PC you just constructed will be your base for all future gaming endeavors, and tweaking its components is all part of the joy of having one.
List of top gaming PC’s
There are several factors to take into account while shopping for a gaming PC, including power, size, components, and the resolution you want to play at. You won’t need a powerful CPU and graphics card if all you want to do is play a couple AAA games at 1080p.
However, you must start planning to save more money for your equipment if you want to play at 1440p or 4K.
Although CPU power is also correlated with gaming prowess, moving beyond a quad-core processor will mostly result in performance benefits in multi-threaded applications like video processing, rendering, and encoding, not in gaming.
You may now be able to get a prebuilt gaming PC with one of the top graphics cards for gaming without having to pay a significant premium or wait weeks or months for your system to arrive since component shortages have become less of an issue.
The whole 12th Gen “Alder Lake” portfolio from Intel is out and, on the whole, rather remarkable. AMD’s new AM5-based Ryzen 7000 CPUs won’t likely be available until later in the year.
Keep a look out for new Nvidia GeForce graphics cards from the 40-series, according to speculations, on the graphics front.
According to the most recent leaks, the RTX 40-series will use a lot of power, particularly at the high end, therefore it’s possible that pre-built gaming PCs will include PSUs with greater wattages than those now available on the market.
We’ll go right to our tested selections for the top prebuilt gaming PCs below. However, if you want additional suggestions on how to purchase and certain features to look for, our purchasing advise is provided below our best gaming PC recommendations.
The Best Prebuilt Gaming PC Available Today
I think this is one of the best gaming PC’s now.
The top-of-the-line prebuilt gaming PC is the MSI Aegis RS 11th. Awesome gaming performance is provided by the 11th Gen Intel Core CPU and choices for an RTX 3080 in a design that you may update on your own in the future.
The casing is one of several standardized components. In actuality, the power supply, GPU, fans, CPU cooler, and case are all made by MSI. Over the following several years, you may modify, customize, and enhance this kind of prebuilt desktop.
The keyboard and mouse that MSI offers are enough for getting started if you don’t already have them, but you’ll probably want to upgrade to a keyboard with mechanical switches later.
Our recommended MSI Aegis RS configuration is:
Configuration for the MSI Aegis RS: Intel Core i7-12700K, Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070, 16GB RAM, and a 1TB SSD
There aren’t many options available for MSI’s prebuilt Aegis RS range as of this writing. This one has an Intel Core i7-12700K and an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070, making it a little more sophisticated.
However, you also get a sizable 1TB of SSD storage, which should be enough to handle a few games, and a water cooler for the CPU to maintain cool temps.
Due to its powerful GPU, the prebuilt Alienware Aurora R11 managed to get it into our list. Nvidia’s Ampere GPUs are currently quite difficult to get, however as of the time of this writing, Alienware is shipping with both the RTX 3080 and RTX 3090, so that’s one option.
Although it may be controversial to some, the futuristic design is undeniably rather tiny. In comparison to the Intel Core i9-10900K in our evaluation unit, the RTX 3090 provided excellent gaming performance.
It makes use of mostly standardized components and has lots of space for additional drives.
The main drawback is that the computer becomes noisy when there aren’t many case fans. Even though it’s pricey, the PC as a whole—not just the graphics card—is maxed out.
Alienware Aurora configuration that we advise:
Configuration for the Alienware Aurora: Intel Core i7-12700F, Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, 16 GB of RAM, and a 512 GB SSD
As of this writing, prices for Alienware’s most recent model, the Aurora R13, vary from $1,300 to over $4,200. A variant with an Intel Core i7-12700F, an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, 16GB of RAM, and a 512GB SSD is presently available for $1,899.99.
Additionally, it features a slightly updated chassis with a side glass that lets you examine the components.
Just a little tower jam-packed with gaming power, with no harsh lighting or glass windows. Steel panels, black mesh, and a fairly understated appearance are features of the iBuypower Revolt 3. The two headset hangers and built-in handle make it brilliant for transporting to your next LAN party.
It is quoted at a reasonable price of $2,599 when tested with an Intel Core i7-11700KF and an RTX 3080, especially in light of the current lack of components. And in this compact chassis, those components function well.
Small form factor computers have some peculiarities. This one requires you to raise the casing up in order to plug in or remove peripherals since the motherboard I/O is located at the bottom. Additionally, there isn’t much space in this situation for improvements.
If you want to create your own PC, this system comes in a casing that we also happen to enjoy.
The Corsair One i300 prebuilt PC resembles a console in certain respects. It has a base that measures 6.93 x 7.87 inches and rises slightly higher than an Xbox Series X, taking up very little room on a desk.
A collection of high-end parts, though, including an Intel Core i9-12900K, an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, 64GB of DDR5 RAM, and a 2TB PCIe Gen 4 NVMe SSD are housed in that aluminum chassis.
It isn’t very noisy since the design draws air in via the sides and exhausts it out the top. However, it is precisely that small form size that makes it difficult to update.
Yes, it is technically feasible, but there isn’t much space to work with and the sides won’t come out since the radiators are attached to them.
However, you’ll have to fork out a sizable sum in order to have this elite, compact system. The alternative version, which uses Intel’s 12th Gen CPUs, begins at $3,649.99, but the one we tested cost a wallet-busting $4,999.
If that’s too expensive (and it is!) you may want to think about some of the less expensive choices on this list.
Corsair One configuration we advise:
Intel Core i7-11700K, Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080, 32GB of RAM, and 1TB and 2TB of storage are included in the Corsair One configuration.
Yes, even though there is a 12th Gen Intel system available, we still suggest an 11th Gen model. However, hear me out: For $3,599.99, Corsair’s miniature desktop variant comes with an RTX 3080 graphics card and 3TB of storage (with 1TB on an SSD and 2TB on an HDD).
Even though the RTX 3080 Ti and the upgrade to a 2TB SSD are wonderful (although there is no HDD), it costs an additional $1,000 as of this writing, totaling $4,599.99. Go for it if you can afford it.
You may not be counting after $3,000, however. But if I had the choice, I would choose this version.
5. HP Omen 30L
A big-box gaming PC that has the appearance like one you built is the HP Omen 30L.
The most recent design includes a sleek glass front and side panels, an intake fan to increase ventilation, and an easy-access panel to reach the most important parts. Oh, and the fresh intake fan naturally matches the new logo and the rest of the system with some stylish RGB.
With a 10th Gen Intel Core i9 and an RTX 3080, the version we tested performed well in both our productivity tests and gaming benchmarks.
Although the single 120 mm fan is sometimes insufficient for the Intel Core i9, we really wish HP had a more powerful CPU cooling.
It’s also good to note that name-brand components have been included. The system has a micro-ATX motherboard, WD Black SSD, Seagate HDD, and a 750W power supply; it has very little, if any, proprietary hardware.
It seems a little bit more like an enthusiast computer than other alternatives because of its particular sauce.
Our recommended HP Omen 30L configuration is:
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X, Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, 16GB RAM, and 512GB SSD configuration for the HP Omen 30L
The HP Omen 30L is quite adaptable. Here, we have a mid-range setup powered by AMD’s Ryzen platform that costs $1,319 at the time of writing and includes an RTX 3060 Ti, 16GB of RAM, and a 512GB SSD.
There are also more costly, higher-end alternatives if you like Intel.
How to Pick a Gaming Computer
- Not always, bigger is better: A system with premium components may be purchased without a massive tower. Only get a large desktop tower if you enjoy the way it looks and want enough of space to add updates in the future.
- If at all feasible, invest in an SSD since it has no moving components and will make your computer much quicker than using a regular HDD. Look for a boot drive with at least 256GB of SSD capacity, preferably combined with a bigger secondary SSD or hard disk.
- You can’t go wrong with AMD or Intel: Both vendors provide equivalent overall performance as long as you use a current-generation processor. When playing games at lesser resolutions (1080p and below), Intel’s CPUs often perform somewhat better, but AMD’s Ryzen processors frequently perform better due to their additional cores and threads when handling jobs like video editing.
- Avoid purchasing more RAM than you need; although 8GB may work in a pinch, 16GB is recommended for most users. Serious game broadcasters and those working with enormous files in high-end video production will want more, but will have to pay a premium for alternatives up to 64 or even 128GB.
- Buy a multi-card gaming setup only if necessary: Get the highest-performing single graphics card you can buy if you’re a passionate gamer. With two or more cards in Crossfire or SLI, many games don’t run noticeably better, and some even perform worse, necessitating the disabling of one costly piece of hardware in order to obtain the optimal performance. Due to these difficulties, you should only think about a multi-card desktop if you need more performance than the greatest high-end consumer graphics card can provide.
- The power source is crucial: Does the PSU provide enough power to support the internal hardware? (The answer is generally “yes,” but there are a few exceptions, especially if you want to overclock a CPU.) Also consider if the PSU will provide adequate power for future GPU and component updates. Our top selections’ case sizes and expansion possibilities differ greatly.
- Ports matter. You’ll need lots of USB ports in addition to the connections required to put in your monitor(s) so that you may bring in additional accessories and external storage. For flash drives, card readers, and other regularly used devices, front-facing ports are particularly practical. Look for a system with USB 3.1 Gen 2 and USB-C connections for further future-proofing.
Nvidia’s RTX 3090, 3080, and 3070 GPUs remain among the difficult-to-find graphics cards, despite improvements in availability and cost.
Though those who are persistent or constantly coming back may be able to locate them with the most recent and finest cards, several of our Nvidia-based options still feature the last-gen cards.
For the majority of consumers, price is the deciding factor when purchasing a PC. When big-box desktops are on sale, you may sometimes discover nice bargains, but you’ll be limited to the parts picked by manufacturers like HP, Lenovo, or Dell.
A custom-built computer has the advantage that you may change the component arrangement to fit your demands and price range.
However, we are pleased to note that more constructions than ever before are arriving with standardized components, allowing you to update them in the future.
We should see new PCs throughout the year since AMD’s Ryzen 7000 processors based on Zen 4 are expected to debut later this year and Intel’s Alder Lake CPUs are already available.
However, I think, after reading this detail guide you are now clear about how to build a gaming PC with all the parts details.
I have discussed 5 best gaming PC’s as reference also. Now, please don’t forget to share your experience and opinion about gaming PC’s in the comment section bellow.